The word hyperpigmentation comes from the Latin hyper (meaning “over”) and pigment (meaning “color”). So if your skin has hyperpigmentation, it’s “over-colored” in places. This happens when certain melanocytes in your skin type start producing more melanin than their neighbors, so spots or patches of skin appear darker than the skin tone around them. (As you probably know, melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color—lighter skin tones have less melanin, and darker skin tones have more).
Hyperpigmentation can look sort of like freckles, except bigger and less uniform in shape. The discoloration can also appear as overall mottling, where the spots merge together into a patchwork of lighter and darker spots.
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How did I get hyperpigmentation?
First of all, know you’re not alone: hyperpigmentation is a common skin care concern and affects people of all skin types. Because darker skin has more melanin, hyperpigmentation is more common in those with darker skin. It can look similar to age spots that are also small brown spots found on the face. The difference between the two is that age spots are caused through constant sun exposure without proper SPF protection.
Causes of hyperpigmentation:
- Sun exposure. Some forms of hyperpigmentation, including melasma and sun spots, usually affect areas of skin that get the most sun exposure: the face, arms, and legs. We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again: wearing a broad spectrum SPF of 30 to 50 every day is the best way to protect your skin from UV rays and a whole host of skin woes—including hyperpigmentation.
- Hormones. “Fluctuations in hormones can lead to hyperpigmentation or melasma, and this occurs most commonly in women,” says Dennis Gross, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York. “Estrogen and progesterone, the female sex hormones, stimulate the overproduction of melanin, which leads to dark spots.” This often occurs in women who are taking birth control, or who are pregnant.
- Injury or inflammation. Other types of hyperpigmentation can form after an injury or skin inflammation, such as cuts, burns, bug bites, psoriasis, or acne, and can occur anywhere on the body.
- Aging. There’s not a lot you can do about this one—it happens to us all. But read on! There are many ways to tackle these dark spots and find a potential treatment option.
How do I get rid of hyperpigmentation?Remove the cause
If the hyperpigmentation is the result of a skincare product, or certain medications, then stopping the use of these products may prevent the formation of new dark spots. If the hyperpigmentation is caused by acne or psoriasis, those underlying skin conditions need to be treated alongside the hyperpigmentation (otherwise it will just come back).
If you are pregnant, the condition will often lighten or go away by itself after the baby is born. If you are taking birth control, share your concerns with your OBGYN, and see if switching to a non-hormonal birth control method might help.
Treating hyperpigmentation
Regardless of the cause, the following skin-lightening products and medical treatments have been shown to help all kinds of skin discoloration. The best approach to treating hyperpigmentation: aim for slow, gradual change using brightening skincare products. These include:
Hydroquinone
There’s been some controversy over this ingredient because it was banned in South Africa, the E.U., and Australia. Why? It was shown to have carcinogenic properties when tested on rats. However, these findings were never replicated in humans, and it is one of the most effective skin-lightening ingredients—so it might be worth discussing with your dermatologist. If you’d rather steer clear, SkinMedica Lytera 2.0 ($154) is proven to be just as clinically effective as hydroquinone when it comes to dark spot treatment, but it’s hydroquinone-free.
Vitamin C
Retinol
This do-everything ingredient also helps with hyperpigmentation. "Not only does it speed up cell turnover, it penetrates deeply into the skin and interferes with pigment production," says San Diego-based Melanie Palm, M.D., director of Art OF Skin MD.—so retinol can also help prevent new dark spots from forming. N.B.: If you’re pregnant, please consult with your doctor before using products with retinol.
Chemical exfoliating acids
If your skin does not respond to any topical treatments, there are other options you can discuss with your dermatologist:
Lasers
Ablative lasers are the most intense, and may cause more side effects. These may work better on people with fair skin.
Non-ablative procedures, on the other hand, target the dermis to promote collagen growth and tightening effects. But for some people, non-ablative versions may cause the skin to darken instead of lighten.
Intense Pulsed Light
IPL therapy is a type of non-ablative (fractional) laser treatment. Also known as a photofacial, IPL therapy heats and destroys brown spots, melasma, broken capillaries, and sun spots. It usually requires 5 or 6 sessions to work, and will cost about $125 to $350 per treatment. In some cases, IPL therapy can worsen certain types of hyperpigmentation – mostly related to melasma. Make sure to speak with a board-certified dermatologist to determine the best treatment approach.
Fraxel
The bottom line? There isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. If you want to try laser treatment, your dermatologist will need to assess your discoloration and overall skin tone to choose the best kind for you.
As you may have noticed, treating hyperpigmentation with serums, peels, and lasers can get VERY expensive. Our best advice: take the PROVEN Skincare Quiz so we can customize skincare that will target your hyperpigmentation at a fraction of the cost. An example of an effective regimen might include: a cleanser with AHAs, a high-SPF day cream with brightening agents like soy and vitamin C, and a night cream with powerful lightening ingredients—such as retinol and kojic acid—that will penetrate your skin deeply while you sleep. Hey—it’s at least worth a shot before you run out and spend thousands on that Fraxel laser treatment.
