Exfoliants have been notable skincare ingredients for decades, but they’ve experienced a serious resurgence ever since skin cycling—which emphasizes the importance of exfoliating—broke the internet in 2022 [1]. Fortunately, from AHAs to BHAs, there are a host of superb exfoliating ingredients that can help you achieve healthy skin and a radiant complexion [2].
But deciding which type of exfoliant to use is less straightforward, particularly if you’re leaning more toward chemical exfoliants, which many dermatologists recommend over their potentially irritation-inducing counterparts [3].
In this case, you may be wondering, what is the deal with the BHA vs AHA debate? Should you use both, or stick with just one?
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What are the 2 Types of Exfoliators?
Exfoliating, as you very well might know, is the act of removing impurities and dead skin cells on the outer layer of your skin to reveal the fresher, “livelier” skin underneath—a process that’s typically performed with physical or chemical exfoliators [4]:
- Physical exfoliators – Physical exfoliators refer to tools, such as exfoliating scrubs, gloves, or brushes, that are often paired with facial cleansers to mechanically “scrub off” the accumulation of dead skin cells and debris that may be chilling out on the top layer of your skin (and, possibly, rendering it dull and ashen). Physical exfoliators can also refer to the infamous scrubs that use ingredients like apricot pits and crushed walnuts to amplify the extraction process [5].
- Chemical exfoliators – Chemical exfoliators is an umbrella term used to refer to the acids that have the power to operate as natural exfoliators sans mechanical tools. Generally, they fall into two categories: AHA and BHA.
The latter is normally recommended over the former, as physical exfoliators may cause minuscule cuts in the skin and damage to your skin barrier. It’s the last thing we want when we’re taking the extra time to nurture our complexions. Luckily, our personalized skincare set takes the guesswork out of finding the right exfoliating ingredient for your skin concern.
Why is Exfoliating Performed?
Done well, and on the right skin type, exfoliating may:
- Boost the brightness of your complexion
- Prep your skin well for the absorption of products
- Curb acne breakouts
- Stimulate improved blood circulation to ensure your skin receives the oxygen and essential nutrients it needs to thrive
Sound fantastic?
That’s because it can be—especially once you discover an exfoliator that “resonates” well with your particular skin type and its conditions.
What is AHA?
AHA is an abbreviation for alpha-hydroxy acids, a cluster of water-soluble acids. There are a handful of AHAs on the skincare market; a few of the most potent and beneficial include [7]:
- Glycolic acid
- Malic acid
- Tartaric acid
- Lactic acid
- Citric acids
What Are the Benefits of AHAs?
- Improve skin tone – An uneven skin tone is one of the most ubiquitous skincare concerns. Caused by a myriad of factors, from sun damage to pollution, it can trigger major frustration. AHAs help address this by fueling skin cell turnover, as new skin cells have less pigment [8]. What’s more, they may also fade scars, age spots, and other splotches of discoloration. The result? A more uniform and stunning complexion.
- Enhance skin elasticity – AHAs are prized because of their capacity to inspire the synthesis of collagen—one of the vital proteins that gives your skin its structure and tautness [9].
- Bolster blood circulation – Proper circulation is crucial for the health and integrity of your skin, as your skin relies on oxygen and nutrients to protect you from environmental hazards and for cell regeneration. AHAs boast anti-inflammatory characteristics that may spur better blood flow, keeping your complexion glowing and vibrant [10].
What is BHA?
BHA is a shorthand for beta-hydroxy acids, another group of acids that have the natural capacity to cast off dirt, bacteria, and dead skin cells. The most prevalently used BHAs include [11]:
- Salicylic acid
- Tropic acid
- Trethocanic acid
What Are the Benefits of BHAs?
- Clearer, more luminous skin – BHAs help to banish dead skill cells that may have accrued in your pores. This may assist with keeping skin clean, clear, and acne-free because they’re oil-soluble that helps to unclog pores and reduce breakouts.
- Smoother texture and a more noticeable glow – BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are also praised for their ability to improve skin texture, such as skin roughened by excessive sun exposure, and for enriching your natural glow [12].
AHA and BHA aren’t the only types of chemical exfoliators available. Enzymes, which are usually derived from fruit and used in peels, are also invaluable. However, enzymes do not prompt skin cell turnover, where much of the magic of exfoliating occurs.
Your best skin—in 3 simple steps.
Our award-winning AI technology turns millions of scientific data points into a personalized, clinically effective, 3-step regimen that works—for you.
BHA vs AHA: One, The Other, or Both?
The appeal of using both an AHA and BHA is perfectly understandable—who wouldn’t want to tackle all of their skincare woes with these acids? But we can’t overstate how powerful these acids can be, and using both can be, well, too much for your skin to reasonably handle. This may provoke:
- Inflammation
- Redness
- Irritation
- Breakouts
At the same time, some research reveals that using both AHA and BHA can lead to more pronounced and brilliant results [14]. If your dermatologist gives you the green light to add both to your skincare arsenal, refrain from layering them. Instead, use an AHA during one exfoliating session, and a BHA on your next [15].
With that established, let’s peer at why one would be preferable over the other, depending on the skin condition(s) you’d like to tackle [16]:
AHAs
- Address hyperpigmentation issues, such as scars, melasma, and sun (or age) spots
- Soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Even out your skin tone
BHAs
Meanwhile, BHAs may become your biggest skincare ally if you’re keen on:
- Reducing acne breakouts
- Improving the appearance of pores
- Tackling the effects of sun damage
Lastly, bear in mind that when it comes to AHA and BHA, one is not superior over the other. Both are extremely useful exfoliants, each with their own set of potential benefits.
BHA vs AHA: Additional Considerations
While your skin is more unique and intricate than these broad categories, it can be helpful to keep these rules of thumb at the forefront of your mind when deciding between AHA and BHA [17]:
- Oily, acne-prone skin – If your skin tends toward the oilier side and you’re on a mission to ban breakouts, you may want to consider a BHA such as salicylic acid. If you do opt for a physical exfoliator, which thicker, oilier skin may be able to manage, be sure to use short, soft strokes.
- Dry skin – Dry skin types may benefit tremendously from an AHA. Further, temper the urge to exfoliate with a mechanical tool: Brushes and scrubs may cause microtears on skin that is already parched.
- Normal skin – Happen to have a complexion that falls in the middle? You have a touch more freedom, and it may behoove you to choose either an AHA or a BHA based on your immediate skincare concerns and goals.
3 Top Tips for Exfoliating
After you’ve arrived at the answer to your own BHA vs AHA debate, approach the endeavor with care—and with these expert tips in mind:
#1. Pair Glycolic Acid with an SPF
That said, it may leave your skin vulnerable to sun damage, so it’s recommended that you follow up with a daily moisturizer with SPF. Using the right sunscreen can help acne if it’s non-comedogenic and has at least SPF 30 or higher.
#2. Refrain from Using Retinol and an Exfoliator in One Session
- One daily session is dedicated to exfoliating
- One is used for reparative ingredients (like retinol)
- Two are used to let your skin heal—ideally, with a heavy focus on moisturizing
This gives your skin a break between exfoliating and more intensive restoration work, like mitigating the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with retinol or attacking acne with a benzoyl peroxide product. Make sure to understand the effects of using benzoyl peroxide with a retinol product, as it can be extremely harmful to your skin. If you use a chemical exfoliator and one of these medications at the same time, you may experience irritation, redness, or a breakout.
#3. Start with One AHA or BHA at a Time—and Go Slowly
Additionally, start off with one or the other with a tiny amount and gradually build up to a larger dose to give your skin time to familiarize itself with these powerhouses.
Is Exfoliating Really Necessary?
If your pores are constantly clogged with dirt or your skin looks dull, exfoliating once a week can help.
The dead skin cells you feel like you’re lugging around will naturally be discarded with time—or around every 30 days [19]. Exfoliating simply hastens the process while also delivering other terrific benefits, like clearing your pores or reducing the risk of dry patches and flakes. But exfoliating is not a requirement, per se; it’s more like extra credit. Indeed, dermatologists assert that three of the most effective ways you can shield and nourish your skin are to [20]:
- Cleanse your face daily
- Wear a broad-spectrum SPF, also daily
- Keep your skin well-moisturized
Should Everyone Exfoliate?
No. Individuals with skin conditions such as rosacea should skip exfoliating entirely and let nature do its work. Otherwise, your condition may become exacerbated and lead to increased redness and irritation.
Exfoliating should also be avoided if you have:
- Open skin wounds
- Cuts
- A sunburn
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BHA vs AHA is one of many questions that can arise when you’re trying to understand which skincare ingredients will give you the radiance you covet. And while AHA and BHA each have their own benefits, experimenting to decide between the two can be tiresome, pricey, and risky.
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